I just had to report on our wonderful trip. I don%26#39;t think it could have gone better. I thank each and everyone of you who has written questions and responded to them. I%26#39;ve read them all as I have scoured this site for months in preparation and planning. I couldn%26#39;t have succeeded in our planning without your help.
ViaMichelin: we picked up our car from CDG and headed out immediately (yes despite jet lag) to Rouen. I had printed out from ViaMichelin.com directions from the airport to our first three stops--they were a total lifesaver. They got us through the mess that is Paris (especially to someone unfamiliar with the roads, names and signage and tired from the trip) without a hitch. My DH used the stop at Giverny for some much needed sleep while my son and I explored that beautiful garden. The water lilies were out early and it was gorgeous.
Normandy: We stopped at the Peace Museum at Caen because it was so highly recommended. It was good, but it felt more like propaganda than history. On the other hand the new visitors center at the US military cemetary in Colleville-sur-mer/Omaha Beach was so moving and had so much history and the experiences of the regular soldier was highlighted. We learned so much there. It doubles the amount of time you need to visit the cemetary, but it was so worth it. I loved the Omaha beach area, all the towns and WWII sites were very moving and beautiful. But I am glad we took the time to visit Utah beach as well. That was my favorite spot.
Mont St Michel: The highlight of the trip for my son. We stayed overnight on the mont, we were able to be there for vespers in the cathedral which was very moving, and got up early to watch the tide come in. Though the shops were closed, to walk the mount and explore the town with few people and be there for the sunset was absolutely worth the extra money it cost. We stayed at Les Terrasses Poulard and loved it completely. We didn%26#39;t even mind the 168 steps it took to get to our room (we were on the top floor and had another flight of stairs even after we got our door opened). But we packed light just as had been recommended by TA posters. We ate at La Confidance at the foot of our steps and were completely satisfied with dinner and the price. We payed for the audioguide for the abbaye but did not find it helpful, I would get some other way to learn what you are seeing.
Versailles: We stayed here at Le Cheval Rouge (a TA recommendation) because of our car. They had a secure parking and we visited Paris and Versailles from here. We visited the Chateau on Saturday. We started a little late as this was our first real down day and we slept in. Still we were in line by 10:15 and inside the chateau by 10:30 (with our parismuseumpass we didn%26#39;t need to stand in the line for tickets: there are two lines, one to buy tickets and one to get into the chateau,,,so we skipped one line and the other one moved fast). I had printed out Rick Steves guide to Versailles and felt it was all we needed. I loved the chateau, I loved the Hall of Mirrors all sparkling and clean from its renovation. It was filled with people and I just imagined we were all wearing gowns and at a Ball. I was completely enthralled by the fountain display---Les Grands Eaux Musicale. What an enchanting way to visit the gardens!!! Go on a Saturday or Sunday so you can walk through the bosquets with the music playing and fountains at almost every corner. It made me feel like royalty. (Cost is 7E with or without PMP). We rented a rowboat and took it out on the Grand Canal which was wonderful. My DH saw the Trianons and my son and I took a walk around Marie Antoinettes domaine. Between the fountains and the boat ride we just couldn%26#39;t get it all in even spending all day there.
Paris: I know you will feel I gave it short shrift, but we only spent a day in the city proper. (Our priorities were elsewhere). But thanks to all the great advice we filled our day with all that we wanted and it was a very successful day. I share it so others can know what is possible.
-we walked from the Eiffel Tower to Notre Dame and Ile St Louis seeing Napoleans tomb/Rodin/orsay/louvre/tuilleries/ along the way. We then took the Metro back to Place Concorde purchasing %26quot;un carnet svp%26quot;. Visited L%26#39;Orangerie. We took the bus #73 up Champs Elysee to the Arc de triomphe and the metro to Trocedero where we walked down to the Eiffel tower again to see the lights come on before heading back to Versailles on the RER C/Vick
-We were the first ones at the Eiffel Tower at 8:30 and were on the first elevator to the top. The line at 9 when it opened still wasn%26#39;t bad. A family in line with us who had a hotel nearby said that they had watched everyday for the least amount of line and first thing in the morning was the only time it was short. We went to the top first and then took the time on the way down to stop on the 2nd floor. We took our time, didn%26#39;t rush and were down by 10:30.
-Rue Cler: we walked over to the Rue Cler, ate a late breakfast at a boulangerie as we sat and people watched.
-Parismuseumpass. We bought a two day pass at Les Invalides. We made good use of this seeing 7 museums and Versailles Chateau (including the Trianons and Maries Domaine). I%26#39;m not sure it helped with any lines since none of the musuems had long lines (even D%26#39;Orsay and Louvre). But it was convienient and easy.
-D%26#39;Orsay: I was a little dissappointed. They apparently rotate the paintings and some that I had looked forward to seeing were not out. Still you can%26#39;t deny the greatness of the works and the ones we saw were amazing and beautiful.
-Louvre: This is big. You know that but you still aren%26#39;t prepared for how big it really is. We got here about 1pm and went through the carousel entrance. The only line was through security and it was maybe 5 min. The Venus de Milo and the Mona Lisa had been moved and were in different locations from the information I had from Rick Steves and the Louvre websites. There were signs directing you though and it was no problem to find them. The Mona Lisa and the Wedding Feast of Cana were in the same Salle so that made it easy. We loved the Grand gallery. The Crown Jewels in the Apollo gallery were also on display. We took the time to go over to the Richelieu wing and there were so many fewer people it was amazing.
-L%26#39;Orangerie: This was the best museum in my opinion. The two rooms dedicated to the masterpiece that is the waterlillies. They are finally displayed like a masterpiece should be -set apart and unique as opposed to being crammed into a room with so many others as to negate the true value and beauty.
-Berthillon icecream: yes we stood in line for our 2E scoop. Can%26#39;t say it was any better than Snelgroves (its a Utah thing).
-Arc de Triomphe: My husband took the two steps up to the ticket booth and had such trouble the lady there stopped him and told him to go to the elevator. It is a tiny thing but we got to the top fresh and relaxed which I cannot say for those who we saw huffing and puffing at the top. Our son in excellent condition nearly beat us and didn%26#39;t even sweat it. The top of the Arc de Triomphe is no place to be when there is lightning and rain. We should have waited it out a little longer, it didn%26#39;t last more than 1/2 hour.
-pickpockets: Thank you, thank you, thank you. I found that somewhere between Les Invaildes when I had paid for the PMP and the end of our visit to the Rodin museum I had been the victim of an attempted pickpocket. I had my purse in a larger bag. My purse had been opened and one of the zippers unzipped and the contents spilled out. I had done all I could to be aware, but it still happened. Because of the advice here I had my money and cards divided between two or three different spots and this most obvious zippered compartment was not one of the places I put them. They got nothing. I can%26#39;t tell you the chill that went up my spine when I discovered it and the frantic moments while I tried to find out if anything had been taken.
I know Paris is so much more, but we thoroughly enjoyed our day and never felt rushed. We didn%26#39;t attempt to become art critics in one day and didn%26#39;t spend time looking at things we had no interest in. We sat on the streets at cafes and ate, we rested in the Tuilleries, we people watched at the Trocedero while waiting for the lights to come on and laughed at the street sellers attempts to avoid the authorities. The day was a total success. Well except for the sore feet. I had worn my most comfortable shoes -white tennis shoes, but my feet still ached at the end of the day.
We also spent time in the Loire and in Lorraine. France is a most beautiful and blessed country. I loved the little french towns. We became quite familiar with boulangeries, ate at cute little restaurants that will never be reviewed here, enjoyed the green rural areas. We used that yellow Michelin map well and couldn%26#39;t have done without it. Still sometimes even it was inadequate and we would spend time wandering cities trying to get out. The signs are great however and the main sites are all well signposted, as are some hotels and tourist info and other helpful places.
I was glad I spoke some french. Even if it wasn%26#39;t much, it helped ease our interactions in the countryside. But toward the end my DH began feeling less nervous about talking and began to go out on errands for shopping and food without me and did just fine with no french at all---even his bonjour was limited.
I truly don%26#39;t know if I will ever be able to return, I tried hard to absorb and keep all the great memories, it was wonderful and amazing.
Thank you again for all the help and advice. Kbecjeans
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Hi. Could you please elaborate on why you thought the Mémorial de la Paix in Caen %26quot;felt more like propaganda than history%26quot;? Propaganda for what? against what?
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%26lt;Could you please elaborate on why you thought the Mémorial de la Paix in Caen %26quot;felt more like propaganda than history%26quot;? Propaganda for what? against what?%26gt;
Propaganda for Peace. Which is admirable and desirable and accomplished there. I felt it was an important site to visit.
I learned more about WWII and D-day at the new visitors center at Omaha beach and in it%26#39;s way of allowing us to see how the impact of that war affected individual and ordinary citizens the effect on me was more powerful. (It obviously is also subtle progaganda, any time someone interprets history you will have their version)
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