First, a huge thank you to all the regular posters and others on this forum!! There are too many of you to name individually, but please know that each of you are so much appreciated for all your vast and valuable posts! I lurked on this forum for many weeks, just reading and gathering info.
Now before I begin this report, a little about our crew. This will help you to understand why we chose to do things the way we did. We were three generations: My parents (in their 70%26#39;s), husband and myself (late 40%26#39;s), and our two daughters (ages 9 and 13). My father can run circles around most men half his age (his energy and stamina is unbelievable!), but my mother was suffering from significant back pain that limited her mobility. She really could not walk long distances, quickly, or for long durations. We booked some organized bus tours so that she would be able to get around to see all the sights in the short time we were there. It also allowed for some front door delivery to some of the sights. We were to arrive on Sunday evening and depart Thursday morning. We all LOVE history and older daughter is happier with museums and fine arts, rather than shopping. Younger daughter loved interacting with people and trying to speak her few words of french to anyone that would listen. My husband and I had been before, but first time for eveyone else. (Most likely, will be only time for my parents.)
We arrived on Sunday evening after spending several days in Vienna. We were somewhat adjusted to the time change, but still pretty tired, as we had been done much walking in the past few days. Anyway, I had booked www.bee-shuttle.com for a 6 person van to accomodate all of us and our luggage. Despite a little mix up on the time (they thought we were arriving in the am, instead of pm, but I guess after checking the flight they had figured it out), they were waiting for us right at the luggage exit. 81 euro each way for all six of us - we got a discount for booking round trip. Thought that was good. The driver was extremely nice and drove us right around the Arc de Triomphe and down Champs-Elysees to Brighton Hotel. What a way to enter Paris for the first time! The hotel was a PERFECT location for our plans while we were there! -Thanks guys- We arrived at the room and looked out the little balcony to see the ET twinkling. Quite exciting. (I had booked 2 triple rooms which worked great. One child with the grandparents and one child with us.)
Everyone was tired and quite irritated when I absolutely insisted that we dash over to L%26#39;As Falafel for a quick bite. (I didn%26#39;t think we would have a chance any other time during our stay) The metro stop almost directly across the street from the hotel was great. We used the carnay tickets, which worked perfectly for us. When we walked to the place after exiting the metro, most everything was either closed, or closing down by that time, and family was even more sceptical and irritated. It had a slightly spooky feel as we walked along. I assured them and after one bite of falafel, my husband and older daughter (who is vegetarian) were thrilled. They (as well as moi) agreed it was well worth the effort! We got the ones from the window outside (what a kick we got from the guy there -ha) and then ate as we walked back to the metro. Hopped on the line and went straight to the Champs-Elysees and directly to Laduree for dessert - yum macaroons! Made it there by 10:45 pm to be seated upstairs in an extremely lovely room with a very warm and friendly waiter. Again, family was thrilled and everyone was very happy to be sitting in such a beautiful room and having such a scrumptious snack after a long day. Older daughter was especially in love with the place and the macaroons. Younger daughter and my mother did not care for the hot chocolate, but others of us liked it. We all agreed we definitely needed to come back for another visit here, at some point during the trip.
Full Day 1: We did a Paris Vision bus tour this morning. The office to catch the bus was just a few doors down from the hotel. We grabbed some pastry breakfast at a nearby cafe and caught the tour. Again, the location was perfect for mom and walking was just a few steps away. We spent some period of time just driving around to all the monuments, while listening to a recorded commentary. As you are shaking your heads, I will confirm that it was not great and I would not recommend it in general, but it did allow for a good overview of the city and it suited our particular needs well. The highlights of the tour came after the bus stopped. The tour then had a Seine cruise all the way from Eiffel Tower around Ile Saint-Louis and back, included. The bus dropped us off right at the dock and we walked directly onto the boat. It was a glorious sunny day in the low 60%26#39;s maybe (lucky us for this time of year) and the boat cruise was very nice. A little chilly in the wind at times (they did have glass covered area inside if you preferred), but still quite nice. After the cruise, we were escorted over to the ET and walked directly to the very short line to to take the elevator up for lunch at Altitude 95. When I saw the other LONG line waiting to go up, I was SO grateful we were NOT in it! We had an absolutely lovely lunch. I was surprised that the food was quite good. It isn%26#39;t the 5 star meal, but quite good just the same and included a glass of wine, which I particularly enjoyed at that moment. After lunch, we decided to %26quot;run%26quot; up the stairs to the second level. Mother had a seat and waited at the little shop on level one, while the rest of us make the trek on the stairs. Except for 9 year old, who whizzed along faster than any of us, we were huffing and puffing after the climb. However, we were richly rewarded with that beautiful view on this cloudless day! We climbed back down to Level 1 and picked up Mother for the elevator ride to the bottom. Since it was such a beautiful day and I wasn%26#39;t sure what the weather would be later in the week, we changed our original plan and decided to take the metro over the Sainte Chapelle. Mom did OK on the walk to/from the metro, but it was a far distance for her, and as everyone has said, there are stairs (no elevator/escaltors) at many of the metro stops. The line at Sainte Chapelle was suprisingly not terribly long at all (as I had feared) and we purchased tickets and went in after just a short wait. The windows were spectacular in the sunshine, but the alter area was covered to a large degree with scaffolding. That was a little disappointing , but the windows were amazing! Mother climbed the stairs up to the second level at Sainte-Chapelle and it was really starting to get to her. We missed the 2:30 guided tour - which I know we would have enjoyed, but beautiful just the same. Afterwards, we walked over to Notre-Dame and sat listening to organ music for a time. It was very peaceful and calming. Mom was having pain and stopped out in front of ND to rest/people watch for a while and the rest of us looked around inside. She later told us she saw a beautifully coiffed woman walking along with a poodle dog and carrying a Chanel bag. To be sitting in front of Notre-Dame and see that - well, it just doesn%26#39;t get much better - ha. Didn%26#39;t do the audio tour since we would be doing a tour later, but did read in our guidebooks about some of the highlights. Afterwards, I went back out and got Mother. She was feeling better and came inside to sit and enjoy the music (and lovely sight) with us. We then strolled over to Ile St-Louis (stopping along the way for a darling photo with the two girls in their newly purchased berets and scarfs posing playfully with backdrop of rear side of ND) We ate at another little place on Ile St-Louis (sorry forgot name) and then, of course, stopped for Berthillon. Again, family is all so grateful to you guys. Father and I had cassis, which we especially loved. Others were quite pleased, as well. We were all pretty exhausted by this point and headed to the hotel for much needed rest.
Full Day 2: Another glorious sunshine filled, mild day! My father got up very early and walked down to Place de la Concorde before breakfast. He loved it. We had breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien, right on the Place du Marche St-Honore (suggestion I got here). The people there were very friendly and we enjoyed it very much. We then connected back at Paris Vision for another bus tour to Versailles. We all agreed that this one was quite good. Our guide told us about the sights along the way and gave us background info on history and what we would be seeing while there. The bus dropped us off directly in front of the gate - great for Mother. We went right in and had a guided tour of the public areas, king%26#39;s private apartments, and queen%26#39;s apartments. The Hall of Mirrors was still under restoration, until I believe June, but about half of it was completed and we definitely could see well. Afterwards, we had a small amount of time to walk around the gardens. Mother sat close to the palace, while the rest of us took a quicky jaunt around. We couldn%26#39;t go far, but it was enough. Would have been nice to spend the day - Trianon etc., but is was still a wonderful time. We made it back slightly before 2pm. Stopped at another cafe for a nice little lunch on Rue de Rivoli and then strolled through the Tuileries over to Musee D%26#39;Orsay. The line was a little longer, but moving quickly. We did, however, purchase 2 day museum passes at D%26#39;Orsay. There was no line at all to purchase them there and go right in. We did not get the audio guide there and I think that was a mistake! We had a guidebook and used it, but the audio guide would have been much better. We looked at a few rooms upon entry and then headed straight up to the 5th floor. By the time we got up there, Mother really needed to sit and rest quite a bit, and none of us seemed to want to trek back down to get the audio guides. We%26#39;ll get them next time! Anyway, the paintings were all overwhelmingly beautiful and we were having a grand time. Then, we had the unbelievably good fortune to run into a friend (and groomsman from our wedding)! Although we keep in touch via annual holiday card, we have not seen him or his wife in 18 years! Of course, neither of us had seen each other%26#39;s children and we certainly had no idea that we would be in Paris at the same time. They live in Connecticut, we live in Texas. It was a great joy and surprise. Spent several minutes visiting and agreed to meet the next day. Afterwards, older daughter and I walked back to hotel (again through Tuileries) via Place de la Concorde. We passed an accordian player (street musician) along the river and it was just such fun to see and hear! I had arranged yet another %26quot;illumination tour%26quot; for that night. This one was an 8 passenger van with pick up and drop off at our hotel. I don%26#39;t know if they had low bookings or what the reason, but our gang of 6 were the only ones in the van. It was wonderful and perfect. Our driver was extremely knowledgable and took us to what seemed like every single site within the remote center area - From Marais, Place des Vosges, past Louvre, through Cite, Latin Quarter, St Germain, all the way to ET and back by Arc, Opera, etc., etc. etc., I would absolutely recommend this one! It didn%26#39;t come inexpensively, but the driver thoroughly answered every question we had and was willing to stop at any point along the way, if we wanted a few photo opportunities. 9 year old slept most of the way, but everyone else was enchanted. When we got back to the hotel, Mother and children went up to the room for sleep. My father, husband, and myself headed out on the metro for a quick zip up to the Arc de Triomphe. We had missed the last admittance to go to the top (10 pm), but had a nice look around and then strolled down Champs Elysees until we got to Cafe George. Stopped for a leisurely glass of wine at one of the outside heated tables and just enjoyed talking about the wonderful time we were having and people watched. It was divine.
Full Day 3: Breakfast at a lovely cafe on Rue de Rivoli, just on the corner across the street from Regina Hotel. It was very nice. Can you stand it???? Yet, one more of the bus tours. It was working great for Mother to reduce walking and still see many things. Our guide this time was a delight! This one was %26quot;Historic Paris%26quot;. It included a guided tour of Notre Dame and although limited in time there, she did a very good job with using the time wisely and again, very knowledgable and answered all our questions. Father complained that he couldn%26#39;t hear her well and I admit, it was somewhat more crowded inside ND and difficult to hear well. Everyone else was fine. Two daughters were dying to climb to the top, so the 3 of us left the tour at that point to climb to the top. The other 3 continued on with the tour and we made plans to meet back at the departure point near Carousel entrance on Rue de Rivoli. My museum pass was helpful and we went in after a very short wait. We were %26quot;entertained%26quot; while we waited by demonstrators and the police %26quot;escort and detainment%26quot; of them. I%26#39;m still not sure what they were demonstrating, but when we got to the top of ND, we could see (and hear) the military band and literally hundreds of different types of uniformed officers in and around the Palace of Justice. The trip up to the top of ND was quite exciting for the girls and they loved seeing the bell too. It went fast, but when we got down, we found that all the police etc. were filing past ND and when we got to the Cite metro stop, the police had it completely blocked off and closed down. I called my husband to let him know we would be a few minutes late getting back to the meeting place. (We each had international service connected on our cell phones at the Cingular store here in the US and they worked great most everywhere in Paris - 5.90 USD for the month, plus a per minute charge, but overall a good deal for us, since we didn%26#39;t use them for extended conversations). At this point we walked down Rue de Rivoli to just west of the Carousel entrance to a street cafe (sorry don%26#39;t remember name) and had the best crepe I have ever put in my mouth! The guy had his griddle along the sidewalk and the girls were amazed to see him pour out the batter and skillfully make them. We all (except vegetarian daughter) split ham, cheese, and tomato for the non-sweet one and nutella and banana for the sweet one. OMG - I am dying at the thought of it. They were SOOO GOOD!! Vegetarian 13 year old was in love with yet another fabulous Parisian food. After that, back to the hotel for a brief break. Mother and younger daughter decided to stay in the room for a rest. Father and husband headed off to Napolean%26#39;s Tomb and WW II exhibit, while 13 year old and I walked through the Tuileries on another sunny, fabulous day to L%26#39;Orangerie. Tuileries was great as it was so nice out. Many children playing soccer, riding ponies, bicyles, and many, many people just sitting and getting sun around the fountain. It was a beautiful walk. We dashed into the L%26#39;Orangerie with my museum pass, but there was no line at all. We both LOVED the water lilies and all. After we finished there, we went back by the hotel to pick up Mom and younger daughter. We walked down to the Carousel entrance to the Louvre and had a brief, but quite successful shopping excursion. We were at the inverted pyramid taking a few pictures of the girls, when I thought I should give Husband and Father a call to see about their progress. I turned around and there they were. We ended up arriving to the Louvre at exactly the same moment and found each other purely without even planning where to meet in advance! Wierd. We went into the Louvre and hit the big three, along with several other rooms in that general area. Again, used a guide book for part of the viewing and it was adequate this time. We particularly enjoyed The Coronation of Napoleon, (since we had seen the copy at Versailles), The Raft of the Medusa, and The Marriage at Cana. 9 year old had her sketch book and pencils which provided lots of entertainment and 13 year old LOVES museums, so she was enthralled. We skipped the Egyptian stuff because we were in Egypt last year and saw the best ever. Husband and 9 year old then went down to the pyramid area to meet the long lost friends from Connecticut, while the rest of us viewed the Apollo Gallery and marveled at the jewels and crowns. WOW! We joined husband to have a quick chat with friends and then they were off to dinner. We strolled over to Napoleon%26#39;s Apartments, which were great - thanks to you again for the suggestion. Everyone loved them. On to our last dinner in Paris at Cafe Marly, just outside the pyramid exit. We sat in the second room upstairs. When I looked to my left, I saw the pyramid and to my right, sculpture garden! Every single dish we ordered there was really outstanding. The waitress was particularly nice, even though we felt we were a little underdressed and scruffy looking by that time of day. We all enjoyed it tremendously. We got rid of a few more calories walking back to the hotel. Mother and 9 year old were exhausted, but Husband, Father, and 13 year old were ready to go back for one last stroll along Champ-Elysees. This time we made it to the Arc in time to go up. Got to use that Museum pass for the 5th time in 2 days! The view at night was stunning and everyone was VERY impressed! We then strolled along for our promised last stop at Laduree. We purchased three boxes of macaroons and daughter said she LOVED this trip and couldn%26#39;t wait to tell her friends ALL about it! Walked a little more and then metro back to the hotel to prepare for a morning flight home. We had called bee shuttle earlier in the day to confirm with them and they were right on time to pick us up. We sadly waved goodbye, but with a smile on our faces and bags of Laduree macaroons on our arms! All in all, every one of us had a fabulous time. Mother did quite well for her condition. As she said before we left, %26quot;She was going to do it, even if it meant crawling on her hands and knees.%26quot; We were all left with wonderful memories of a lifetime, sharing this experience with those we love most in the world!
I know this is WAAYY TOO LONG, but I hope it has been helpful to some and 1/2 as much fun to read as I have had writing it. One post script would be that I was very surprised at the lack of crowds. Hardly any line anywhere we went - except ET. Maybe it was the early time of year, weak dollar for Americans, or a combination of many factors, but it couldn%26#39;t have been better for us. There were still many sights we missed - Cluny, Rodin, Sacre Coer (which we specifically deleted since I knew from you guys that the funiculaire was not running during our trip), etc. Next trip - oui!
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More-trips:
That is a great post, and not a word too long; I read everything. I suspect that some of us are sitting here reading your post and wondering if we would have the patience and the flexibility to do what you did for your mother. I cannot think of a better way to see Paris.
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What a fantastic time you had! Thank you for taking the time to write a report!
It was very interesting choice of tours and sights to see.
It was so great to make arrangements for your mother to see everything too!
A trip to remember for 3 generations!
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What a fantastic detailed report. I loved it. I am planning a family trip in September and all this info is so helpful. I only wish I could afford to take my mother too as she would love it. It%26#39;s so fantastic too that your party really appreciated all you carefully researched plans!
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I truly enjoyed sharing every detail of your trip report. I can imagine how difficult it was for your mom to be doing so much every day. I clearly remember loving my trip, but finding every day exhausting.
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More-trips: Great report. I hope you%26#39;ll stick around to share your experience with others who post here.
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Wow ! What a lovely trip report...Even if I live in Paris, I love reading other people%26#39;s trip reports. I always learn about a different place or restaurant to visit !
Thanks for the efforts you put in writing the report !
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Very fun report. Good for you for taking your mother and helping her have a great trip, even with her limitations. What a great family memory to share.
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No way is your trip report too long! Thanks for coming back and letting us know how your visit went. It sounds like you and your family had a wonderful trip and you should be planning your next trip soon!
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I absolutely loved reading this, thank you! I am headed to Paris in June with our DD (16) and my mother...so a smaller 3 generation trip;) Your report is making me want to go NOW, lol!
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Thank you all for your kind comments. It was truly wonderful. I%26#39;ve enjoyed reading along in preparation for this trip. Perhaps I can add something of value from time to time, now that I have personal experience.
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